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"every little thing works if you let it"
-James "Big Son" Medlin
Before couple of years I changed the majority of how I keep bees. The majority of it absolutely was to make it less work. I'm today maintaining about 200 hives with a comparable work We accustomed put in four. Here are some associated with the things I altered.
I have visited just top entrances. No-bottom entry. I'm sure you can find all kinds of people who either hate top entrances or think they cure cancer tumors, or double your honey crop. I don't believe both. But i love them and here is why:
- I never have to concern yourself with the bees devoid of accessibility the hive as the lawn grew too high. I also do not have to cut the lawn at the hives. Less work with me personally.
- We never need to be worried about the bees without having accessibility because of the snow being also deep (unless it gets over the tops regarding the hives). So I need not shovel snow after a snowstorm to start the entrances up.
- I never need to worry about putting mouse protections on or mice engaging in the hive.
- I never have to bother about skunks or opossums consuming the bees.
- Coupled with a SBB We have good ventilation in the summer.
- I will spend less purchasing (or making) quick migratory design covers. Most of mine are simply some plywood with shingle shims for spacers. Many are broader notches in internal covers that I currently had.
- Within the wintertime I do not have to worry about lifeless bees clogging underneath entrance.
- I could put the hive eight inches reduced (because I do not have to worry about mice and skunks) hence makes it easier to put that top super on and get it off if it is complete.
- Lower hives blow over less inside wind.
- This works nicely for long top club hives when I put supers on as the bees need to enter the extremely for in.
- With some Styrofoam on top, there is very little condensation with a top entrance when you look at the cold temperatures.
Keep in mind, if you have no-bottom entrance therefore use an excluder (that I never) you'll need some type of drone escape on the bottom to allow them to get out. A 3/8" (9.5mm) gap can do. I would place it in entrance block on the bottom board.
Uniform framework dimensions."Whatever design (hive) might be used, let it you should be one with movable structures, and now have but one size frame in apiary."-A.B. Mason, Mysteries of Bee-keeping explained
The framework may be the fundamental component of a modern bee hive. Even if you have actually different sized boxes (as far as the sheer number of structures they hold) in the event that frames are equivalent level you'll put them in almost any of bins.
Having an uniform framework dimensions has simplified my entire life. If all of your frames are the same dimensions you have got lots of advantages.
It is possible to put anything presently in the hive anywhere else it's needed.
- You can place brood up a package to "bait" the bees up. This might be helpful without an excluder (I do not use excluders) but it is specifically of good use if you genuinely wish to use an excluder. A couple of frames of brood above the excluder (making the queen as well as the remaining brood below) truly motivates the bees to mix the excluder and begin working the second box above it.
- It is possible to place honey combs in for meals anywhere you really need it. I love this for making certain nucs cannot starve without the robbing that feeding usually starts, or bulking up the shops of a light hive inside fall.
- It is possible to unclog a brood nest by going pollen or honey up a box and on occasion even a couple of frames of brood up a field which will make area within the brood nest to avoid swarming. Unless you have got all equivalent dimensions, in which will you put these frames?
- It is possible to run an endless brood nest with no excluder incase there's brood anywhere it is possible to move it elsewhere. You're not caught with a lot of brood in a medium that you cannot go right down to your deep brood chamber. The main advantage of the limitless brood nest is the queen is not restricted to some brood containers, but can be laying in 3 or 4. Most likely not four deeps, but most likely in four mediums.
we cut all my deeps down seriously to mediums.
Usually we notice issue, "do they winter too?" and I state they winter better in my opinion while they have much better communication involving the frames because of the gap between the bins. Steve of Brushy Mt. accustomed say there was some research to this result, but i am not sure finding it. Heddon found equivalent conclusion as did Hutchinson"buddies don't allow friends raise deeps" Jim Fischer of Fischer's BeeQuick
The most difficult thing in my situation about beekeeping is lifting. Boxes full of honey are hefty. Deep boxes full of honey are heavy. There could be some disagreement as to the precise loads of the full box of honey, and there are some other factors included in my experience this might be a fairly great synopsis of sizes of containers and typical uses for all of them:
Standard 10 Frame boxes
Name(s) Depth Weight high in honey Uses
- Jumbo, Dadant Deep: 11 5/8" 90 pounds Brood
- Deeply, Langstroth Deep: 9 5/8" 72 pounds Brood & Ext
- West Bee provide: 7 5/8" 63 weight Brood & Ext
- Medium, Illinois, 3/4: 6 5/8" 55 weight Brood & Ext & Cmb
- Shallow: 5 Â¾" or 5 11/16" 45 pounds Cmb
- Extra Shallow, Â½: 4 Â¾" or 4 11/16" 36 pounds Cmb
8 frame containers:
- Jumbo, Dadant Deep: 11 5/8" 72 lbs
- Deep: 9 5/8" 58 lbs
- Western Bee provide: 7 5/8" 50 lbs